About Us

The Pack Family Journal is a place where we gather text and images of our lives, adventures and travels. This is a very personal site, written openly and honestly. Enjoy.

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Thanksgiving Day 2009

I hope today is not like yesterday. Yesterday was another day of depression and anger and no ability to focus. I can't live like this.

This morning was much like every morning; wake up, drink some coffee, eat something, then get on my computer and start working. This morning, we took Cai to the beach to run out her morning energy.

Today my attention is on syncing the website, the publication and weekly. Eat have the same sections and information; Places to Eat, Place to Stay, Things to Do, Things to See, etc. I also need to get the boat rack ready to go and then take time to enjoy Thanksgiving.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Tough Day

I'm not sure what causes or triggers my depression, but when it hits me, it brings me down hard! The feelings of no self worth over take me, I no longer possess the will to live - I hate myself and my life.

I think there are many triggers. The tough money situations and the frustrations related to that, including workload are the biggest contributors. I know I can not stop working when I feel behind; behind in money, bills, goals, tasks or anything. I need to stop, breath, and relax.

Yesterday Rachel and I went to the El Dorado Property when I hit bottom, it felt good. It always feels good when we're alone and not on our computers, and especially when we're outdoors.

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

November 2009 - Gypsy Journal - Hurricane Jimena

We had been watching the hurricane for days. This was on Tuesday and our son's wedding was in five days. The direction of Hurricane Jimena would force our hand; would we be able to go or would we be trapped?

As Loreto prepared, we too prepared what we could. "Talking cars" were driving through town announcing that the water was going to be turned off. We filled our tanks and our two five-gallon bottles of drinking water. Our neighbor had even filled his boat with gas, "might need it to get through town," he said, not setting our minds at ease.

Tuesday night, Rachel began to cry as the fear was building. I assured her things would be okay, and I had a plan; of course, that didn't help at all. We could hear the wind whipping outside as we reviewed the plan. We would sit tight; if it looked as if it were going to move northeast, we would leave early in the morning and try to race past it; if it appeared to head directly east or southeast, we would batten down and pray.

At 4 a.m. it looked as if it were heading northeast—this was the deciding factor; we needed to get past it or we would be be stuck.

Outside the wind was howling and it was eerily dark. Our greatest fear was the wind blowing a hatch off the top of the RV and rain pouring in and destroying it. So, Rachel and I worked as a team to hoist large rocks onto the roof and strategically placed them on and around the hatches to help hold them in place. As we were about to leave, Yolanda, the park owner, kept saying, "muy peligroso, muy peligroso" ("very dangerous"). But, if we didn't leave then, we wouldn't be able to leave at all.

As the rain fell and the wind blew, we said good-bye to our cats, which would be cared for by our neighbor. We got our dog, Cai, into the car and left. We drove through the darkened town toward the highway, dodging growing streams of water in the streets and only passing two vehicles; a local police pickup helping another police officer change a flat.

When we reached the outskirts of Loreto, at the military checkpoint, the soldiers were holding their posts. The wind made holding the steering wheel difficult. Our windshield wipers had not been used in so long, they had dried up and now were almost useless, so the rain made it hard to see.

As dawn approached, we had still not seen any other vehicles. The sky was ominous and dark, and strangely beautiful. North of MulegĂ©, the highway was becoming washed out. We had to cross streams of water 30 feet across and thankfully only as deep as our floorboard. Then we reached a bridge being built, and at the bottom of the bypass around the construction the river had overtaken the road and there was no way to pass. There was no room to turn around, so we backed up the highway and drove over the unfinished bridge—still unpaved, without railing and covered in gravel.

In Santa Rosalia it seemed that they had already been hit by the hurricane; although they had not, the highway was covered in mud and water. In many places the water flowed across the highway into the sea. If this is how it looked before the hurricane, how could it handle a direct hit?

As we crossed the peninsula towards Guerrero Negro, the skies cleared and the day became beautiful. When we reached the El Rey Sol Posada hotel in Ensenada, it was dark and we were exhausted.

The next morning we were heading to a wedding! Santa Barbara was beautiful. David Cybulski, my best friend since Jr. High, and his wife, Karin, and daughters Sarah and Amber, welcomed us into their home for the week. That night our son, Troy, came by after his bachelor party in the mountains—a full moon and plenty of bourbon!

My mom and my sister, Suzette, arrived the next morning. That evening we met our son's new family. I hate this kind of stuff, but surprisingly it went well and everyone had a good time.

Just as we were finishing dinner, David called and said they were out scouring the neighborhood in search of Cai. Apparently, the gate was left open and our dog went looking for us. So, Rachel and I spent a exhaustive evening out prowling in search of Cai; we turned up nothing and went to bed empty handed.

The next morning, as we began to continue our search, my Mom leaned out the car window and asked the first person she saw if they'd seen a little red dog that looks like a fox. "Last night," was the reply.

It turned out someone down the street had picked her up. After knocking on several doors, we came up empty handed again. So, we went to the pound and asked if they had seen her. "We just brought her in. Here she is," a man said as he handed Rachel our scared puppy. I had two very happy girls!

The wedding was the next morning. We had left in such a hurry that I only brought dress shirts . . . no pants, no belt, no tie, no shoes . . . nothing! Fortunately, David enjoyed the culinary delights and spirits as I did, and had similar girth; so, I was dressed in David's attire and was "wedding ready."

The wedding was on a beautiful grassy knoll, overlooking a lovely golf course. In the distance I could see the Pacific Ocean and endless blue skies. The ceremony was stunning, my new daughter-in-law, Cherise, was gorgeous and my son was more handsome than I've ever seen. Rachel, of course, was tearing up, as well as my Mom and nearly every person around me.
We had outrun Mother Nature to get here . . . and I couldn't have been happier!

Saturday, October 3, 2009

October 2009 - Gypsy Journal

All the photos can be clicked on, to get full size.
Photo credits and captions, top to bottom. Uses as many or as few as you like.
1. Brent, Joe, Julie and John wading in clear warm waters of Isla de Coronado, by Rachel Pack
2. Rachel takes self portrait with everyone in background, by Rachel Pack
3. Rachel takes self portrait with Cai, who is clearly happy on her first boat trip, by Rachel Pack
4. John and Brent watch Cai play on the beach, by Rachel Pack
5. Brent's boat rests on shore with crystal clear waters, by John Pack


A Gypsy is defined as an itinerant: a laborer who moves from place to place as demanded by employment. One of the best things about being a gypsy and traveling to work is the discoveries and people along the way.

One such discovery was San Javier Mission and the new friend we made in the process. Everyone we spoke to would say, "have you been to San Javier Mission?" Of course, we hadn't, having just arrived and, at the time, only having bicycles for transportation.

San Javier is 23 miles up into the Sierra Gigante mountains behind Loreto and we were not about to ride our bikes. We had heard the road was incomplete and the first portion is a vertical climb until you reach the high plateau at the mountain top. Fortunately, we met Brent Currier, a resident of the RV park, where we're staying; he had made the trip many times and offered to give us a tour.

At mile marker 7, we stopped to visit the rock paintings at a canyon oasis, and although the paintings were not too impressive, not for lack of talent, but rather because they were faded and worn, the oasis was very impressive. Even now, a hundred years or more later it was clear why this area was selected; tall palms, a creek that has run down through solid rock for hundreds of years, creating a deep channel and some great swimming holes.

As it turned out, the road was completed nearly half way, turning to dirt at the 10 mile mark, which was nearly to the top. From there the road turned to gravel and rock, and it was clear to see why it hadn't move beyond this point yet, 100 yards past the pavement was what appeared to be a very tough area for construction; a slope around a narrow, solid rock corner. Plus, it was August and very hot this time of the year. Fortunately, the day we took the trip, we had some cloud cover and it wasn't too bad.

At the top of the mountain were large ranches in a canyon of yet high mountain peaks and on the fare side of the canyon was our destination, the village of San Javier and the Spanish Mission of San Francisco Javier. This was one of the most well-preserved missions in Baja, standing proud and beautiful over 250 years old. Behind the mission are olive trees that were planted by the original Spaniards and there is an active aqueduct with running canals (see the September 2009 edition for the story of San Javier).

On the road back to Loreto, just before reaching the highway, we stopped at Del Borracho Saloon and Grill for an ice cold draft Modelo Negro and a mouthwatering burger. Any trip to San Javier is not complete without a stop at this saloon.

Our next discovery was the Isla de Coronado, which is on the northern end of the Bay of Loreto Marine Park. This is the third protected marine bioregion in the Gulf of California, joining ranks with the Upper Gulf/Lower Colorado Biosphere Reserve to the north above San Felipe and the Cabo Pulmo Reserve to the south. The park is fairly small, covering approximately 1,283 miles (roughly a half million acres) in the Sea of Cortez. The five islands lying within the designated Bay of Loreto Park boundaries include Islas Coronado, Carmen, Danzante, Montserrat and Santa Catalina.

Our friend Brent, once again, took us on a tour, only this time on his boat. We were joined by our new friends Joe and Julie Whelan. The water of the island was as blue and clear as any I have seen. We spent the afternoon exploring around the amazing volcanic island and wading off the white sandy beach and diving off the boat into the crystal waters. We also discovered that during the hot summer months small jellyfish migrate in the Sea of Cortez. Some of these animals are so tiny that you'll barely be able to see them. Fortunately, the sting isn't painful, and for many people it isn't much more than an itching sensation.

Even our dog Cai made discoveries this month, she discovered she enjoyed boat rides and she discovered she actually could swim. Both of which were great discoveries of our own, because the water has always and will always be a big part of our life, and considering she is a desert dog and had never been on a boat before, this was a wonderful discovery. She enjoyed the island as much as we did and ran up and down the beach, exploring. But, the most surprising discover was finding out, after the fact, that bringing dogs on the island is a $2,000 fine. Ouch!




Tuesday, August 25, 2009

A Round Trip from Loreto to Loreto

John and Rachel Pack

Every since arriving back in Loreto from La Paz, it has been a whirlwind, from the format change and printer change of Mexico Living to general non-stop go, go, go, and between it all we've made a couple of important discoveries—the first is we needed wheels with air conditioning. It's been almost three months now that we've had our bikes to get us around and it's been fun, but as August came upon us like a warm wet blanket, these wheels were becoming less inviting. The second came when we began to address the first discovery.

The only way for us to get air-conditioned wheels was to go get our car in San Felipe. That meant one of us would have to take the bus to get it . . . you can guess which one. When we left on this journey, we decided we would just leave the car and use our bikes and local transportation to get around. Which in most cases in Baja is ideal, except in the later part of summer. So, I had to go back to San Felipe to get our car. When Rachel bought the ticket, she did so without checking the connection time and as it turned out my 18-hour bus ride from Loreto to Ensenada was to arrive at 6 a.m., with a connection to San Felipe at 6 p.m.—the only one of the day. What I didn't know was how efficient they were, when they arrive at 4 a.m.

I wasn't exactly sure where I was in relationship to Lopez Mateo and the tourist zone, so I sat around the station until the sun started to come up enough that I could look for the Pacific or the the enormous Mexican Flag near the cruise ship docks. Sure enough, I spotted the flag, about 10 blocks away, probably the only flag that can be seen from outer space.

The trip was rather uneventful, the first 18 hours were spent watching Roll Bounce, a roller skating disco movie with dubbed Spanish, circa 1979, or Like Mike 2, a basketball movie with the little rapper Bowwow. I was astonished to find that Bowwow was fluent in Spanish. The 14 hours spent in Ensenada ticked away while I walked from one end of the tourist zone to the other . . . many times. I watched the U.S. get stomped by Mexico in the Gold Cup, and did a little work at a couple of Internet cafes.

I found out that although there was only one bus going to San Felipe that day there were dozens others that same time coming and going from many destinations, so many in fact, I almost missed my bus. Fortunately, I was able to get onboard just as it was pulling out. Another uneventful ride, except that the movies were better, both were in English, which was a lot more entertaining for me. The first was a mountain climbing movie, which was shown during the drive over the mountains, and as someone with an issue with heights, I watched it with the shades pulled.
The second movie was I Am Legend with Will Smith. I was so enjoying this movie that when the bus broke down, I wasn't too concerned because we were getting close to town and I didn't want to miss the ending. Fortunately, the bus starting having problems shortly after the road construction and in only a few minutes was rolling again, albeit only about five miles an hour, but it was getting me there. The bus will stop nearly anywhere you ask, so Joyce and Richard, Rachel's parents met me at the El Dorado Pemex. It was 10:30 p.m.

We had left our car at our friends', Gene and Darcy Jensen, house tucked in their garage for safe keeping. They were not in town and the house sitter, who's name I'll leave anonymous, since I didn't ask permission to publish it, had the keys. The next morning after lots of running around and getting four tires replaced, Rachel's dad and I went to get the car; of course, the battery was dead, apparently they need to have water in them and with the advise of the house sitter we put some water in it . . . lo and behold it started. Once we got back to Richard's house we loaded up, I grabbed my "Honey Do" list and it was off to Mexicali . . . almost . . . we had to jump the car again—then it was off to Mexicali at 11 a.m. First stop, Walmart for a new battery. On a previous trip I had learned my lesson about buying batteries, when I went all the way to Walmart on the U.S. side of the border only to find the batteries were "Hecho de Mexico."

Turns out our first stop was the military checkpoint. I forgot to leave the car running and turned it off—no bueno, now it wouldn't start. Richard and I pushed it off to the side of the road, and in a couple moments one of the higher ranking soldiers came over to offer a hand. All I needed was a jump, but he insisted they could fix it and brought over their mechanic, who fiddled with this and that, cleaned the terminals with brake fluid and finally walked away after saying something I didn't understand. Moments later he was back with a Mexican man in a pickup truck, just someone they got from the checkpoint line to help. He gave us a jump and we were on our way. I tried to offer the only thing we had, money and cold beer, but he didn't want either. Instead he said we needed to go get a new battery, which I explained was our next stop, and asked if he would like us to bring him some fruit or soda on our return. Which we did.

Mexicali was as hot as any place I had ever been—118. When we got into town, I realized the the car wouldn't even idle; I had to do the brake, neutral, idle, drive, brake, etc., to keep it running. The best part was the train blocking the Walmart entrance and the bumper-to-bumper traffic. "Traveling with you is never boring," said Richard, when I reminded him that the only difference between adventure and an ordeal is attitude.

By the time we got to Walmart, I hadn't stalled the car once and was getting pretty good at driving like that, although very dangerous. All this stop and go had put us way behind. Once we got the new battery we headed over the border, got all our errands done and were back in Mexico in less than an hour.

The drive home was non-stop. We were back in San Felipe by 8 p.m., just enough time to help Rachel's mom label the new edition for all the new subscribers of the month. At 5 a.m. the next morning, while Richard and Joyce slept, I started the car—no jump needed. Seventeen and half hours, lots of potato chips, water and text messages to Rachel, I was back in Loreto with new tires, a new battery and air-conditioned wheels!